Mont Blanc Italian Route from Gonella

Experience the Mont Blanc Italian Route via Gonella, the most scenic and challenging ascent on the southern face of Mont Blanc. This Mont Blanc via Gonella route offers a wilder, less-frequented climb through glaciers, rocky ridges, and breathtaking alpine landscapes.
Ideal for expert mountaineers, the Mont Blanc Italian Route via Gonella combines technical challenge, solitude, and the true spirit of high-altitude adventure.

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Duration
3 Days
duration
Period
Jun - Jul
ratio
Guide ratio
Max 1 for each Mountain Guide
price
From
2680€
Level
Level
intermediate
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fitness
Fitness
very good
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THE PROGRAM:

The Mont Blanc Italian Route via Gonella is the most spectacular and demanding ascent on the southern face of Mont Blanc.
This challenging Mont Blanc via Gonella route unfolds across 1,800 meters of elevation gain, passing through wild glaciers and sharp, scenic ridges.
Originally descended by Achille Ratti in 1890, the route later became the historic Italian normal route of Mont Blanc, known for its solitude and alpine beauty.

Today, the Mont Blanc Italian Route via Gonella remains a technical climb for experienced and well-trained mountaineers. It requires solid mountaineering experience, advanced crampon use, and excellent fitness for sustained effort at altitude.
Because of its remote setting and difficulty, guides often recommend adding an acclimatization day to assess technical ability and ensure safety on steep slopes and exposed sections.

For those seeking a true high-mountain adventure, the Mont Blanc via Gonella route offers an unforgettable experience among glaciers and ridges that define the wild side of the Alps.

Note: due to weather conditions, in recent years it has usually been accessible only in the first part of the season, when there is still enough snow coverage in the lower sections. Take a look to Goûter Route for an easier ascent.

How to approach the Mont Blanc Italian Route from Gonella


Previous experiences recommended:

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Mont Blanc Italian Route from Gonella GROUP DEPARTURES

RATES

PRIVATE TOUR
  • 2680€ per person with 1 participant

THE RATE INCLUDES

  • the assistance of a UIAGM/IFMGA certified Mountain Guide
  • liability insurance
  • safety gear used by the Guide (eg rope)
  • loan of personal equipment (harness, ice axe, crampons and helmet)
  • overnight stay in a refuge with half board
  • the Mountain Guide’s expenses (transfers, meals and accommodation)

THE RATE DOES NOT INCLUDE

  • research and rescue insurance with UVGAM coverage (recommended): €5 per person for 3 days
  • transfers
  • hiring of the trek poles (15€/per person)
  • extra meals and beverages
  • nonspecificato

LIVE THE ADVENTURE, SHARE THE EXPERIENCE

We believe that adventure is the soul of life. Our mission is to inspire people to be able to overcome their limits. Such as the spirit created between rope partners, we believe in the value of sharing experiences and emotions

LIVE THE ADVENTURE

We believe that adventure is the soul of life. Our mission is to inspire people to be able to overcome their limits.

SHARE THE EXPERIENCE

Such as the spirit created between rope partners, we believe in the value of sharing experiences and emotions

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Mont Blanc Italian Route from Gonella ASCENT DAY BY DAY

Elevation gain: 1,400 m
Ascent time: 4-5 hours
Meeting point: meeting in Courmayeur for equipment checking and shortbriefing.

We’ll start at the bottom of Veny Valley, we will walk on a paved road until Combal lake. From there we’ll climb the steep moraine up to the sharp rocky ridge, towards the Miage basin. We’ll walk for about 2 1/2 hours on the glacier’s moraine, on flat ground, in a truly spectacular setting. During the final stretch, detritus gives way to snow and ice. The last part of the ascent, on a steep but fully-equipped trail, will take us to the Gonella Hut (3,050 m).
Dinner and overnight stay in the hut.

Elevation gain: 1,800 m
Ascent/descent time: 10-12 hours

We’ll leave the refuge around 1 am and tackle the glacier, alternating upright slopes, flat stretches and some steep pitches on seracs. The extremely wild landscape stretches until the plateau under the Col de Bionassay, which we’ll traverse towards the Col des Aiguille Grises (heavily crevassed and difficult). Before the climb, we’ll take a breather on the bare ice with some easy rock stretches (pitches up to grade II). From the Col des Aiguille Grises (3,900 m), we’ll ascend the sharp and spectacular ridge, with airy and narrow stretches giving way to the ample slopes leading to the summit of the Piton des Italiens. Without further difficulties we’ll reach the peak of the Dôme du Goûter, where our route joins the Goûter (French) route (4,200 m).
From here we’ll pass by the Vallot Hut (4,362 m) and finally, along the amazing Arête des Bosses, we’ll reach the summit.
We’ll go down along the same route down to Gonella hut; dinner and overnight at the hut.

In case the conditions (for weather or timing reasons) require the descent on the French side, the Guide will decide to descend along the route best suited to ensure safety (Gouter/Tête Rousse or Cosmiques /Torino hut route), with use of cable car for the descent to Chamonix or Courmayeur.
The return to Italy, in this case, must include an extra cost for the purchase of lift tickets and private taxi transfer for the client and the Guide. These additional costs shall be covered in full by the customer.

Elevation loss: 1,400 m
Descent time: 4-5 hours

Wake up, around 7:00 am, and breakfast at Gonella hut. We will then follow the same itinerary we climbed up on the first day, until reaching the parking lot in Val Veny.
Lunch break and final toast with the Guide before heading home.

EQUIPMENT REQUIRED

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mountaineering boots
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backpack 30 l
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climbing helmet
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harness
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(+39) 3337681414 / (+39) 3289720451
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NOTES

  • It is crucial that participants follow all instructions provided by the mountain guides before and during the activities, and that they accept any changes made to the programme in order to guarantee their safety.
  • Fees for lift facilities, transfers and mountain lodges are subject to changes established and applied by they respective owners. without any liability attributable to PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides.
  • The rates listed in the “The rate does not include” section are to be considered merely indicative and are therefore subject to changes.
  • PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides reserves the right to change any route or activity programme based on conditions (weather, accessibility, refuge) and participants’ fitness level.
  • The dates indicated for the activities may change due to weather, snow, or soil conditions, etc. In addition, they depend on the date of opening / closing of the lift facilities, which are established seasonally/yearly by the managing entities of the same and, therefore, are not in any way attributable to PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides.