PROGRAM
A 7-day training program to get you ready for climbing to the summit of the Matterhorn, the symbol of the Alps mountains, the most famous rock pyramid in the world, and the dream of every mountaineer. Climbing this iconic mountain, however, requires adequate preparation and experience in high altitude environments. This training program, which can be customized on request, allows you assess and test your skills, readying yourself for the ultimate challenge through a series of beautiful preparatory climbs of comparable difficulty. Give yourself the best possible chance of reaching summit of Matterhorn!
GROUP DEPARTURES
Meeting point: SkyWay cable car parking area for equipment check and a short briefing with the Guide, before a short transfer by car to Val Ferret.
The first day is dedicated to learning the basics of climbing or to refresh your technical skills. According to your level, we can decide whether to do the planned exercises in crags or to tackle an easy multi-pitch, among those most suitable to assess your technical ability and physical preparation.
We take the Skyway cable car up to the Torino Hut (3,375 m), where we have dinner and spend the night.
Meeting point: SkyWay cable car parking area for equipment check and a short briefing with the Guide, before a short transfer by car to Val Ferret.
The first day is dedicated to learning the basics of climbing or to refresh your technical skills. According to your level, we can decide whether to do the planned exercises in crags or to tackle an easy multi-pitch, among those most suitable to assess your technical ability and physical preparation.
We take the Skyway cable car up to the Torino Hut (3,375 m), where we have dinner and spend the night.
Difference in altitude: 350 m
Ascent/descent time: 5-6 hours
We crampon across the famously scenic Géant Glacier, reaching first the Col Flambeau and then the Col d’Entrèves (3,517 m). From here, we climb an easy rocky ridge to begin the traverse of the sharp Aiguille d’Entrèves. The ridge gets increasingly sharper and more technical (III) as we approach the summit (3,604 m). We continue by descending on the airy and technical ridge, which gets easier until we once again step foot on the glacier. Once we reach the track we return to the Torino Hut where we spend the night.
Difference in altitude: 350 m
Ascent/descent time: 5-6 hours
We crampon across the famously scenic Géant Glacier, reaching first the Col Flambeau and then the Col d’Entrèves (3,517 m). From here, we climb an easy rocky ridge to begin the traverse of the sharp Aiguille d’Entrèves. The ridge gets increasingly sharper and more technical (III) as we approach the summit (3,604 m). We continue by descending on the airy and technical ridge, which gets easier until we once again step foot on the glacier. Once we reach the track we return to the Torino Hut where we spend the night.
Difference in altitude: 650 m
Ascent/descent time: 6-8 hours
We get up early and set out for the Dent du Géant (“Giant’s Tooth”). We start by following an easy track until we reach a steep little couloir. This leads to the starting point of the wall which in turn leads to the Gengiva del dente (“Tooth’s Gums”). In this section the terrain is mixed, with some snow and some easy stretches of rock. The actual climbing begins once we reach the Gums, with a few demanding and rather exposed segments (grade IV-V). In some sections, fixed ropes facilitate the ascent.
After exactly 6 pitches we finally reach the summit (4,013 m).
We descend by abseiling down to the Gums, then along the normal ascent route. We head back to the Torino Hut and from there, by cable car, to the parking lot.
Difference in altitude: 650 m
Ascent/descent time: 6-8 hours
We get up early and set out for the Dent du Géant (“Giant’s Tooth”). We start by following an easy track until we reach a steep little couloir. This leads to the starting point of the wall which in turn leads to the Gengiva del dente (“Tooth’s Gums”). In this section the terrain is mixed, with some snow and some easy stretches of rock. The actual climbing begins once we reach the Gums, with a few demanding and rather exposed segments (grade IV-V). In some sections, fixed ropes facilitate the ascent.
After exactly 6 pitches we finally reach the summit (4,013 m).
We descend by abseiling down to the Gums, then along the normal ascent route. We head back to the Torino Hut and from there, by cable car, to the parking lot.
Rest day.
Rest day.
Difference in altitude: 1,028 m
Ascent time: 4 hours approx
Meeting point: meeting in Cervina for equipment check and briefing.
We take 4WD cars to the Duca degli Abruzzi Hut (2,802 m). From here, the route winds its way up a series of slabs until Colle del Leone, where the final climb towards the summit begins. After a few challenging stretches, we reach the Carrel Hut (3,830 m), where we spend the night and gather our strength for the following day’s demanding ascent.
Difference in altitude: 1,028 m
Ascent time: 4 hours approx
Meeting point: meeting in Cervina for equipment check and briefing.
We take 4WD cars to the Duca degli Abruzzi Hut (2,802 m). From here, the route winds its way up a series of slabs until Colle del Leone, where the final climb towards the summit begins. After a few challenging stretches, we reach the Carrel Hut (3,830 m), where we spend the night and gather our strength for the following day’s demanding ascent.
Difference in altitude: 650 m
Drop height: 1,220 m
Ascent/descent time: 8-10 hours
We set off from Carrel Hut around 4:30 am. The itinerary is intense and challenging all the way to Pic Tyndall. Another series of unique stretches, like the Enjambée and the Jordan Ladder, lead us at last to our coveted summit of the Matterhorn (4,478 m). The journey continues across steep and exposed terrain, and remains physically exerting and technically demanding until we reach the Hörnlihutte, where a nice meal and some well-deserved rest await us.
Difference in altitude: 650 m
Drop height: 1,220 m
Ascent/descent time: 8-10 hours
We set off from Carrel Hut around 4:30 am. The itinerary is intense and challenging all the way to Pic Tyndall. Another series of unique stretches, like the Enjambée and the Jordan Ladder, lead us at last to our coveted summit of the Matterhorn (4,478 m). The journey continues across steep and exposed terrain, and remains physically exerting and technically demanding until we reach the Hörnlihutte, where a nice meal and some well-deserved rest await us.
Difference in altitude: 800 m
Ascent/descent time: 2-3 hours
Whenever we’re ready, we leave the warm and welcoming Hörnlihutte and head towards the Furggen Glacier, where a pleasant traverse takes us to Theodul Hut, in time to catch the cable car back to Cervinia.
Difference in altitude: 800 m
Ascent/descent time: 2-3 hours
Whenever we’re ready, we leave the warm and welcoming Hörnlihutte and head towards the Furggen Glacier, where a pleasant traverse takes us to Theodul Hut, in time to catch the cable car back to Cervinia.
DETAILS
RATES
- the assistance of a UIAGM/IFMGA certified Mountain Guide
- liability insurance
- booking assistance service (including assistance for refuges and lifts reservation)
The rate does not include
- research and rescue insurance with UVGAM coverage (recommended): €12 per person for 7 days
- the hiring of any personal equipment (harness, ice axe, crampons and helmet): €30/day per person while supplies last
- the Mountain Guide’s expenses (lifts, transfers, meals and accommodation) to be covered by participants
- transfers: 4WD taxi cars €80-120 round-trip, depending on the number of passengers
- lifts: Skyway cableway round-trip ticket €48 per person; Zermatt-Schwarzsee cableway round-trip ticket 25€ per person, cableway from Plateau Rosa to Cervinia one way ticket: 10,50€ per person
- accomodation in mountain huts: Torino hut €60 per person (Guide 35€); overnight accommodation at Capanna Carrel 30€ per person (Guide 15€); half-board at Hörnlihutte: 150€ per person (Guide 140€), beverages not included
- anything that is not mentioned under "The rate includes"
