PROGRAM
“Spaghetti Tour” is the name given by English-speaking climbers to a traverse of the Monte Rosa group starting in Cervinia and ending in Gressoney. With four overnight stopovers in mountain huts on the Italian side, and a fresh 4,000 m peak or two each day. This is a magnificent itinerary on the great plateau of Monte Rosa, in the footsteps of the Mezzalama Trophy competition route.
Difference in altitude: 700 m
Ascent/descent time: 5-6 hours
Meeting point: Cervinia cable car ticket office for an equipment check and a short briefing with the Guide
We take the cable car to Plateau Rosa, then we climb up to the Breithorn Pass and after to the summit of the Breithorn (4.165 m).
A quick descent take us to the trail that running under the Central Breithorn, the Roccia Nera and Pollux, leads right up the Verra Pass. From there, in about an hour we descend to the Ayas Guide hut (3,400 m).
Difference in altitude: 700 m
Ascent/descent time: 5-6 hours
Meeting point: Cervinia cable car ticket office for an equipment check and a short briefing with the Guide
We take the cable car to Plateau Rosa, then we climb up to the Breithorn Pass and after to the summit of the Breithorn (4.165 m).
A quick descent take us to the trail that running under the Central Breithorn, the Roccia Nera and Pollux, leads right up the Verra Pass. From there, in about an hour we descend to the Ayas Guide hut (3,400 m).
Difference in altitude: 800 m
Ascent/descent time: 6-7 hours
We make our way up to the Verra Pass, which marks the start of the route up the west face of Castor. At around 4,000 m, having negotiated the bergschrund, we tackle the climb to the summit ridge. The view from the summit of Castor (4,200 m) is magnificent, ranging from the Margherita Hut to the Lyskamm, from Gran Paradiso to Mont Blanc and from the Po Valley to the Swiss four-thousanders.
The descent begins with a pleasant, and fairly easy walk along a snowy ridge, which leads to a steep slope that take us down to the Felik Pass and the Felik Glacier.
At 3,575 m, at the edge of the glacier, we arrive at the Quintino Sella Hut, where we can enjoy a meal and stay the night.
Difference in altitude: 800 m
Ascent/descent time: 6-7 hours
We make our way up to the Verra Pass, which marks the start of the route up the west face of Castor. At around 4,000 m, having negotiated the bergschrund, we tackle the climb to the summit ridge. The view from the summit of Castor (4,200 m) is magnificent, ranging from the Margherita Hut to the Lyskamm, from Gran Paradiso to Mont Blanc and from the Po Valley to the Swiss four-thousanders.
The descent begins with a pleasant, and fairly easy walk along a snowy ridge, which leads to a steep slope that take us down to the Felik Pass and the Felik Glacier.
At 3,575 m, at the edge of the glacier, we arrive at the Quintino Sella Hut, where we can enjoy a meal and stay the night.
Difference in altitude: 800 m
Ascent/descent time: 6-8 h
For the first two hours we walk along the Western Lys glacier, then we are faced with the steep climb to the Lyskamm Nose. A fairly easy descent leads us to the Eastern Lys glacier, which we cross heading towards the Vincent Pyramid. Having reached the summit, we take the trail that coming down from the Lysjoch and make our way to the Gnifetti Hut (3.647 m) where we enjoy a meal and stay the night.
Difference in altitude: 800 m
Ascent/descent time: 6-8 h
For the first two hours we walk along the Western Lys glacier, then we are faced with the steep climb to the Lyskamm Nose. A fairly easy descent leads us to the Eastern Lys glacier, which we cross heading towards the Vincent Pyramid. Having reached the summit, we take the trail that coming down from the Lysjoch and make our way to the Gnifetti Hut (3.647 m) where we enjoy a meal and stay the night.
Difference in altitude: 1,500 m
Ascent/Descent time: 6-7 hours
This lap takes us to the highest mountain hut in Europe, the Margherita Hut (4,554 m).
It is a gradual ascent that touches the summits of the Balmenhorn, the Ludwigshöhe. Finally, we reach Signalkuppe, where the Margherita Hut stands, where we enjoy our meal and stay the night.
Difference in altitude: 1,500 m
Ascent/Descent time: 6-7 hours
This lap takes us to the highest mountain hut in Europe, the Margherita Hut (4,554 m).
It is a gradual ascent that touches the summits of the Balmenhorn, the Ludwigshöhe. Finally, we reach Signalkuppe, where the Margherita Hut stands, where we enjoy our meal and stay the night.
Difference in altitude: 100 m
Descent gain: 1,680 m
Ascent/descent time: 6-8 hours
We leave Margherita hut to reach the last of summit over 4,000m, the Zumsteinspitze . From here, downhill all the way … and what a long way it is! We go through the Grenzgletscher to the Monte Rosa Hut, the hut used for climbing the Monte Rosa’s highest peak, the Dufourspitze.
Difference in altitude: 100 m
Descent gain: 1,680 m
Ascent/descent time: 6-8 hours
We leave Margherita hut to reach the last of summit over 4,000m, the Zumsteinspitze . From here, downhill all the way … and what a long way it is! We go through the Grenzgletscher to the Monte Rosa Hut, the hut used for climbing the Monte Rosa’s highest peak, the Dufourspitze.
Difference in altitude: 300 m
Descent gain: 640 m
Ascent/descent time: 3-4 hours
Our descent continues until we reach the path to the Rotenboden train station, from which a rack railway heads down to Zermatt. From Zermatt, we take the cable car to the Klein Matterhorn, then another cable car stretch take us down to Plateau Rosa, where our itinerary ends.
Difference in altitude: 300 m
Descent gain: 640 m
Ascent/descent time: 3-4 hours
Our descent continues until we reach the path to the Rotenboden train station, from which a rack railway heads down to Zermatt. From Zermatt, we take the cable car to the Klein Matterhorn, then another cable car stretch take us down to Plateau Rosa, where our itinerary ends.
DETAILS
RATES
- the assistance of a UIAGM certified Mountain Guide
- liability insurance
- loan of shared safety material
The rate does not include
- research and rescue insurance with UVGAM coverage (recommended): €12 per person for 7 days
- the Mountain Guide’s expenses (lifts, transfers, meals and accommodation) to be covered by participants
- transfers, meals and accommodation
- lifts tickets: Breuil-Cervinia-Plateau Rosa multi-day round trip ticket €32 per person; Zermatt – Matterhorn Glacier Paradise 65CHF per person; Rotenboden-Zermatt one-way ticket 34CHF per person)
- half-board in mountain huts: €70 per person at Ayas Guides’ hut (Lambronecca); €70 per person at Quintino Sella al Felik hut; €75 per person at Gnifetti hut; €100 per person at Regina Margherita Hut; CHF95 per person at Monterosahutte Hut. Rates do not include beverages.
- anything that is not mentioned under "The rate includes"