PROGRAM
The ascent by the normal route is a technically very complete itinerary.
It requires previous experience in handling glaciers with ice axe and crampons. It is also necessary to have some basic rock climbing techniques knowledges.
The terminal spire in rock is equipped with fixed ropes that facilitate the ascent.
The summit is a perfect panoramic balcony on the Matterhorn and on the whole Monte Rosa chain.
Ascension certainly more demanding than that of the Castor, the Pollux offers a good training ground on mixed terrain. The technical difficulty requires presenting his ascent a useful test of preparatory excursion to more demanding peaks (such as the Matterhorn).
The climb can be tackled in one day from the Plateau Rosà, departing from Cervinia. The climb can be made in 2 days from the Val d’Ayas, based on the Ayas Guides Refuge (Lambronecca).
The ascent from Cervinia requires a good training for the long crossing on the glacier that from Colle del Breithorn leads to the attack of the southwest ridge in the heart of the Verra glacier.
Difference in altitude: 1.000m
Ascent/descent time: 7-8 h
Meeting point: meeting in Cervinia for material check and short briefing
Departure with the first cable car to Plateau Rosà, where crampons are put on and the climb begins. We head towards the Colle del Breithorn, around 3,800 meters of altitude, where you arrive in less than an hour, for a first short, refreshment stop. In the crossing of the glacier, the traces of ascent to the various Breithorn are left, it continues also beyond that leading to the Black Rock. It is the attack of Pollux after about two and an half hours. Crampons are removed (of course we observe the conditions season by season) to tackle the first stretch of ridge on rock and debris. Climbing passages alternate (I/II), partly equipped with some fixed ropes in the most exposed passages, where the grade rises (III +). The pre-summit at 3.991m presents a statue of the Madonna and Child, where we stop to trace the crampons. The elegant final snowy ridge leads to the summit, overcoming the last 100 m in altitude. From the top (4.092m) you can enjoy a spectacular panorama: from the Matterhorn, to Mont Blanc, to the Grand Combin, to the Valais mountains. The descent takes place on the same ascent route. Plan for Plateau Rosà by 4.15 pm in order to take the last downhill cable car that takes you back to Cervinia.
Difference in altitude: 1.000m
Ascent/descent time: 7-8 h
Meeting point: meeting in Cervinia for material check and short briefing
Departure with the first cable car to Plateau Rosà, where crampons are put on and the climb begins. We head towards the Colle del Breithorn, around 3,800 meters of altitude, where you arrive in less than an hour, for a first short, refreshment stop. In the crossing of the glacier, the traces of ascent to the various Breithorn are left, it continues also beyond that leading to the Black Rock. It is the attack of Pollux after about two and an half hours. Crampons are removed (of course we observe the conditions season by season) to tackle the first stretch of ridge on rock and debris. Climbing passages alternate (I/II), partly equipped with some fixed ropes in the most exposed passages, where the grade rises (III +). The pre-summit at 3.991m presents a statue of the Madonna and Child, where we stop to trace the crampons. The elegant final snowy ridge leads to the summit, overcoming the last 100 m in altitude. From the top (4.092m) you can enjoy a spectacular panorama: from the Matterhorn, to Mont Blanc, to the Grand Combin, to the Valais mountains. The descent takes place on the same ascent route. Plan for Plateau Rosà by 4.15 pm in order to take the last downhill cable car that takes you back to Cervinia.
DETAILS
RATES
- the assistance of a UIAGM certified Mountain Guide
- liability insurance
- loan of shared safety material
- the Mountain Guide’s expenses (transfers and lifts)
- lifts Cervinia-Testa Grigia (Plateau Rosà)
The rate does not include
- research and rescue insurance with UVGAM coverage (recommended): €5 per person for 3 days
- the hiring of any personal equipment (harness, ice axe, crampons and helmet): €25/day per person while supplies last
- tickets for lift facilities
- the Mountain Guide’s expenses (lifts, transfers, meals and accommodation)
- transfers, meals and accommodation
- anything that is not mentioned under "The rate includes"
