PROGRAM
The Biancograt route to the summit of Piz Bernina needs no introduction. It is probably the most beautiful and elegant snow ridge of the Alps. This classic climb demands a great shape, excellent technical skills, and should only be attempted with optimal soil and weather conditions, especially for crossing from the Swiss peak to the Italian one.
GROUP DEPARTURES
Difference in altitude: 800 m
Ascent time: 3-4 hours
Meeting point: Pontresina (Switzerland), for equipment check and a short briefing with the Guide
From Pontresina, the best option for reaching the Tschierva Hut (2,583 m) is to take the horse-drawn coach, which takes us as far as the Roseg Hotel (1,999 m) and saves us about 2 hours’ walk. Beyond the hotel, we take a trail that follows the left side of the Roseg Valley, offering a spectacular view that sweeps from Piz Roseg to Piz Bernina and the entire Biancograt.
The path becomes stony as it climbs to the Tschierva Hut, where we can enjoy a meal and stay overnight.
Difference in altitude: 800 m
Ascent time: 3-4 hours
Meeting point: Pontresina (Switzerland), for equipment check and a short briefing with the Guide
From Pontresina, the best option for reaching the Tschierva Hut (2,583 m) is to take the horse-drawn coach, which takes us as far as the Roseg Hotel (1,999 m) and saves us about 2 hours’ walk. Beyond the hotel, we take a trail that follows the left side of the Roseg Valley, offering a spectacular view that sweeps from Piz Roseg to Piz Bernina and the entire Biancograt.
The path becomes stony as it climbs to the Tschierva Hut, where we can enjoy a meal and stay overnight.
Difference in altitude: 1,500 m
Ascent/descent time: 7-9 hours
After breakfast we set off into the rubble field above the hut, guided by the light of our headlamps and the reflectors strategically placed on the rocks. We cross a short stretch of the glacier, then we climb up to the Fuorcla Prievlusa (3,445 m) before a stretch of roughly grade-III rock climbing takes us up to a plateau. Here we can enjoy a view of the legendary Biancograt in all its majesty. For the most part, we go along the ridge’s edge. The first peak we reach is the Piz Bianco (3,995 m), which marks the start of the most technically demanding section.
The route climbs and falls over stretches of rock and snow (grades I and II), then we pass a series of gendarmes, with some pretty exposed climbing (III+), before a section of easy, short pitches gives access to the summit of Piz Bernina (4,048 m).
We go down on the Italian side along the airy ridge that leads to La Spedla (or Punta Perrucchetti, 4,026 m).
A final, steep ascent over rocks and a snowfield will bring us to the welcoming Marco e Rosa Hut (3,609 m) for dinner and overnight stay.
Difference in altitude: 1,500 m
Ascent/descent time: 7-9 hours
After breakfast we set off into the rubble field above the hut, guided by the light of our headlamps and the reflectors strategically placed on the rocks. We cross a short stretch of the glacier, then we climb up to the Fuorcla Prievlusa (3,445 m) before a stretch of roughly grade-III rock climbing takes us up to a plateau. Here we can enjoy a view of the legendary Biancograt in all its majesty. For the most part, we go along the ridge’s edge. The first peak we reach is the Piz Bianco (3,995 m), which marks the start of the most technically demanding section.
The route climbs and falls over stretches of rock and snow (grades I and II), then we pass a series of gendarmes, with some pretty exposed climbing (III+), before a section of easy, short pitches gives access to the summit of Piz Bernina (4,048 m).
We go down on the Italian side along the airy ridge that leads to La Spedla (or Punta Perrucchetti, 4,026 m).
A final, steep ascent over rocks and a snowfield will bring us to the welcoming Marco e Rosa Hut (3,609 m) for dinner and overnight stay.
Difference in altitude: 800 m
Descent gain: 1,200 m
Ascent/descent time: 6-8 hours
From the hut, we cross the glacier heading east below the spurs of the slender pyramid of the Crest’Aguzza. We climb a gentle slope until we gain about 100 m, and reach a point below the Bellavista Peaks. Here, we have two options: either we follow the ridge linking the three peaks of Piz Palü, then make our way in a wide arc down to the Diavolezza cable car, or we head north, climbing straight down in the direction of a rocky spur known as the Fortezza, and make our way to the glacier two-hundred metres below via a fun, if exposed, stretch of down climbing. From the glacier we need to climb back up a rocky col and cross another snowfield, then we make our way through a rubble field to the final section of the Morteratsch Glacier. Then, we follow the road to Morteratsch station, where we can catch the train back to Pontresina.
Difference in altitude: 800 m
Descent gain: 1,200 m
Ascent/descent time: 6-8 hours
From the hut, we cross the glacier heading east below the spurs of the slender pyramid of the Crest’Aguzza. We climb a gentle slope until we gain about 100 m, and reach a point below the Bellavista Peaks. Here, we have two options: either we follow the ridge linking the three peaks of Piz Palü, then make our way in a wide arc down to the Diavolezza cable car, or we head north, climbing straight down in the direction of a rocky spur known as the Fortezza, and make our way to the glacier two-hundred metres below via a fun, if exposed, stretch of down climbing. From the glacier we need to climb back up a rocky col and cross another snowfield, then we make our way through a rubble field to the final section of the Morteratsch Glacier. Then, we follow the road to Morteratsch station, where we can catch the train back to Pontresina.
DETAILS
RATES
- the assistance of a UIAGM/IFMGA certified Mountain Guide
- liability insurance
- safety gear used by the Guide (eg rope)
- booking assistance service (including assistance for refuges and lifts reservation)
The rate does not include
- research and rescue insurance with UVGAM coverage (recommended): €5 per person for 3 days
- the hiring of any personal equipment (harness, ice axe, crampons and helmet): €30/day per person while supplies last
- tickets for lift facilities
- the Mountain Guide’s expenses (lifts, transfers, meals and accommodation)
- transfers, meals and accommodation
- anything that is not mentioned under "The rate includes"
