Peakshunter logo
Piz Bernina – Biancograt Piz Bernina – Biancograt

Piz Bernina - Biancograt


The Biancograt route to the summit of Piz Bernina needs no introduction. It is probably the most beautiful and elegant snow ridge in the Alps.
PHOTOS

PROGRAM

The Biancograt route to the summit of Piz Bernina needs no introduction. It is probably the most beautiful and elegant snow ridge of the Alps. This classic climb demands a great shape, excellent technical skills, and should only be attempted with optimal soil and weather conditions, especially for crossing from the Swiss peak to the Italian one.

DAY

Difference in altitude: 800 m
Ascent time: 3-4 hours
Meeting point: Pontresina (Switzerland), for equipment check and a short briefing with the Guide

From Pontresina, the best option for reaching the Tschierva Hut (2,583 m) is to take the horse-drawn coach, which takes us as far as the Roseg Hotel (1,999 m) and saves us about 2 hours’ walk. Beyond the hotel, we take a trail that follows the left side of the Roseg Valley, offering a spectacular view that sweeps from Piz Roseg to Piz Bernina and the entire Biancograt.
The path becomes stony as it climbs to the Tschierva Hut, where we can enjoy a meal and stay overnight.

DAY

Difference in altitude: 800 m
Ascent time: 3-4 hours
Meeting point: Pontresina (Switzerland), for equipment check and a short briefing with the Guide

From Pontresina, the best option for reaching the Tschierva Hut (2,583 m) is to take the horse-drawn coach, which takes us as far as the Roseg Hotel (1,999 m) and saves us about 2 hours’ walk. Beyond the hotel, we take a trail that follows the left side of the Roseg Valley, offering a spectacular view that sweeps from Piz Roseg to Piz Bernina and the entire Biancograt.
The path becomes stony as it climbs to the Tschierva Hut, where we can enjoy a meal and stay overnight.

DAY

Difference in altitude: 1,500 m
Ascent/descent time: 7-9 hours

After breakfast we set off into the rubble field above the hut, guided by the light of our headlamps and the reflectors strategically placed on the rocks. We cross a short stretch of the glacier, then we climb up to the Fuorcla Prievlusa (3,445 m) before a stretch of roughly grade-III rock climbing takes us up to a plateau. Here we can enjoy a view of the legendary Biancograt in all its majesty. For the most part, we go along the ridge’s edge. The first peak we reach is the Piz Bianco (3,995 m), which marks the start of the most technically demanding section.
The route climbs and falls over stretches of rock and snow (grades I and II), then we pass a series of gendarmes, with some pretty exposed climbing (III+), before a section of easy, short pitches gives access to the summit of Piz Bernina (4,048 m).
We go down on the Italian side along the airy ridge that leads to La Spedla (or Punta Perrucchetti, 4,026 m).
A final, steep ascent over rocks and a snowfield will bring us to the welcoming Marco e Rosa Hut (3,609 m) for dinner and overnight stay.

DAY

Difference in altitude: 1,500 m
Ascent/descent time: 7-9 hours

After breakfast we set off into the rubble field above the hut, guided by the light of our headlamps and the reflectors strategically placed on the rocks. We cross a short stretch of the glacier, then we climb up to the Fuorcla Prievlusa (3,445 m) before a stretch of roughly grade-III rock climbing takes us up to a plateau. Here we can enjoy a view of the legendary Biancograt in all its majesty. For the most part, we go along the ridge’s edge. The first peak we reach is the Piz Bianco (3,995 m), which marks the start of the most technically demanding section.
The route climbs and falls over stretches of rock and snow (grades I and II), then we pass a series of gendarmes, with some pretty exposed climbing (III+), before a section of easy, short pitches gives access to the summit of Piz Bernina (4,048 m).
We go down on the Italian side along the airy ridge that leads to La Spedla (or Punta Perrucchetti, 4,026 m).
A final, steep ascent over rocks and a snowfield will bring us to the welcoming Marco e Rosa Hut (3,609 m) for dinner and overnight stay.

DAY

Difference in altitude: 800 m
Descent gain: 1,200 m
Ascent/descent time: 6-8 hours

From the hut, we cross the glacier heading east below the spurs of the slender pyramid of the Crest’Aguzza. We climb a gentle slope until we gain about 100 m, and reach a point below the Bellavista Peaks. Here, we have two options: either we follow the ridge linking the three peaks of Piz Palü, then make our way in a wide arc down to the Diavolezza cable car, or we head north, climbing straight down in the direction of a rocky spur known as the Fortezza, and make our way to the glacier two-hundred metres below via a fun, if exposed, stretch of down climbing. From the glacier we need to climb back up a rocky col and cross another snowfield, then we make our way through a rubble field to the final section of the Morteratsch Glacier. Then, we follow the road to Morteratsch station, where we can catch the train back to Pontresina.

DAY

Difference in altitude: 800 m
Descent gain: 1,200 m
Ascent/descent time: 6-8 hours

From the hut, we cross the glacier heading east below the spurs of the slender pyramid of the Crest’Aguzza. We climb a gentle slope until we gain about 100 m, and reach a point below the Bellavista Peaks. Here, we have two options: either we follow the ridge linking the three peaks of Piz Palü, then make our way in a wide arc down to the Diavolezza cable car, or we head north, climbing straight down in the direction of a rocky spur known as the Fortezza, and make our way to the glacier two-hundred metres below via a fun, if exposed, stretch of down climbing. From the glacier we need to climb back up a rocky col and cross another snowfield, then we make our way through a rubble field to the final section of the Morteratsch Glacier. Then, we follow the road to Morteratsch station, where we can catch the train back to Pontresina.

DETAILS

DURATION
orologio
3 Days
orologio
TECHNICAL DIFFICULTY
stelle
high
stelle
FITNESS LEVEL
cuori
good
cuori
PERSONS
utente
Max 1 for each Mountain Guide
utente
PERIOD
calendario
from 01/06 to 30/09
DURATION
TECHNICAL DIFFICULTY
FITNESS LEVEL
PERSONS
PERIOD
3 Days
high
good
Max 1 for each Mountain Guide
from 01/06 to 30/09
orologio
stelle
cuori
utente
calendario

RATES

1600 € fee per person with 1 participant
The rate includes
  • the assistance of a UIAGM certified Mountain Guide
  • liability insurance
  • loan of shared safety material

The rate does not include
  • research and rescue insurance with UVGAM coverage (recommended): €5 per person for 3 days
  • the hiring of any personal equipment (harness, ice axe, crampons and helmet): €20/day per person while supplies last
  • tickets for lift facilities
  • the Mountain Guide’s expenses (lifts, transfers, meals and accommodation)
  • transfers, meals and accommodation
  • anything that is not mentioned under "The rate includes"
Notes
  • It is crucial that participants follow all instructions provided by the mountain guides before and during the activities, and that they accept any changes made to the programme in order to guarantee their safety.
  • Fees for lift facilities, transfers and mountain lodges are subject to changes established and applied by the respective owners without any liability attributable to PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides.
  • The rates listed in the “The rate does not include” section are to be considered merely indicative and are therefore subject to changes.
  • PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides reserves the right to change any route or activity programme based on conditions (weather, accessibility, refuge) and participants’ fitness level.
  • The dates indicated for the activities may change due to weather, snow, or soil conditions, etc. In addition, they depend on the date of opening/closing of the lift facilities, which are established seasonally/yearly by the managing entities of the same and, therefore, are not in any way attributable to PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides.
Notes
  • It is crucial that participants follow all instructions provided by the mountain guides before and during the activities, and that they accept any changes made to the programme in order to guarantee their safety.
  • Fees for lift facilities, transfers and mountain lodges are subject to changes established and applied by the respective owners without any liability attributable to PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides.
  • The rates listed in the “The rate does not include” section are to be considered merely indicative and are therefore subject to changes.
  • PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides reserves the right to change any route or activity programme based on conditions (weather, accessibility, refuge) and participants’ fitness level.
  • The dates indicated for the activities may change due to weather, snow, or soil conditions, etc. In addition, they depend on the date of opening/closing of the lift facilities, which are established seasonally/yearly by the managing entities of the same and, therefore, are not in any way attributable to PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides.
freccia

ITINERARY

MORE INFORMATION Request info by filling in the form or call us at:
(+39) 333 7681414
(+39) 328 9720451

    *required field
    up
     

    By continuing to use the site, you agree to the use of cookies. more information

    The cookie settings on this website are set to "allow cookies" to give you the best browsing experience possible. If you continue to use this website without changing your cookie settings or you click "Accept" below then you are consenting to this.

    Close