PROGRAM
Only for experienced mountaineers, this is the most scenic and also the most difficult route. Witha drop of 1,800 m among breathtaking glaciers and sharp ridges, the route wind through the most untouched corners of Mont Blanc’s south face. Opened downhill by Achille Ratti in 1890, it subsequently became the Normal Italian Route. Nowadays it is a demanding and seldom-attempted itinerary, in a high mountain environment of unmatched beauty.
Note: due to weather conditions, in recent years it has usually been accessible only in the first part of the season, when there is still enough snow coverage in the lower sections. Take a look to Goûter Route for a easier ascent.
Difference in altitude: 1,400 m
Ascent time: 4-5 hours
Meeting point: meeting in Courmayeur for equipment checking and shortbriefing.
We’ll start at the bottom of Veny Valley, we will walk on a paved road until Combal lake. From there we’ll climb the steep moraine up to the sharp rocky ridge, towards the Miage basin. We’ll walk for about 2 1/2 hours on the glacier’s moraine, on flat ground, in a truly spectacular setting. During the final stretch, detritus gives way to snow and ice. The last part of the ascent, on a steep but fully-equipped trail, will take us to the Gonella Hut (3,050 m).
Dinner and overnight stay in the hut.
Difference in altitude: 1,400 m
Ascent time: 4-5 hours
Meeting point: meeting in Courmayeur for equipment checking and shortbriefing.
We’ll start at the bottom of Veny Valley, we will walk on a paved road until Combal lake. From there we’ll climb the steep moraine up to the sharp rocky ridge, towards the Miage basin. We’ll walk for about 2 1/2 hours on the glacier’s moraine, on flat ground, in a truly spectacular setting. During the final stretch, detritus gives way to snow and ice. The last part of the ascent, on a steep but fully-equipped trail, will take us to the Gonella Hut (3,050 m).
Dinner and overnight stay in the hut.
Difference in altitude: 1,800 m
Ascent/descent time: 12-15 hours
We’ll leave the refuge around 1 am and tackle the glacier, alternating upright slopes, flat stretches and some steep pitches on seracs. The extremely wild landscape stretches until the plateau under the Col de Bionassay, which we’ll traverse towards the Col des Aiguille Grises (heavily crevassed and difficult). Before the climb, we’ll take a breather on the bare ice with some easy rock stretches (pitches up to grade II). From the Col des Aiguille Grises (3,900 m), we’ll ascend the sharp and spectacular ridge, with airy and narrow stretches giving way to the ample slopes leading to the summit of the Piton des Italiens. Without further difficulties we’ll reach the peak of the Dôme du Goûter, where our route joins the Goûter (French) route (4,200 m).
From here we’ll pass by the Vallot Hut (4,362 m) and finally, along the amazing Arête des Bosses, we’ll reach the summit.
We’ll go down along the same route; it is often convenient to head to Goûter Hut and then to Les Houches, where you can catch the shuttle back to Courmayeur (through the Mont Blanc Tunnel).
Difference in altitude: 1,800 m
Ascent/descent time: 12-15 hours
We’ll leave the refuge around 1 am and tackle the glacier, alternating upright slopes, flat stretches and some steep pitches on seracs. The extremely wild landscape stretches until the plateau under the Col de Bionassay, which we’ll traverse towards the Col des Aiguille Grises (heavily crevassed and difficult). Before the climb, we’ll take a breather on the bare ice with some easy rock stretches (pitches up to grade II). From the Col des Aiguille Grises (3,900 m), we’ll ascend the sharp and spectacular ridge, with airy and narrow stretches giving way to the ample slopes leading to the summit of the Piton des Italiens. Without further difficulties we’ll reach the peak of the Dôme du Goûter, where our route joins the Goûter (French) route (4,200 m).
From here we’ll pass by the Vallot Hut (4,362 m) and finally, along the amazing Arête des Bosses, we’ll reach the summit.
We’ll go down along the same route; it is often convenient to head to Goûter Hut and then to Les Houches, where you can catch the shuttle back to Courmayeur (through the Mont Blanc Tunnel).
DETAILS
RATES
- liability insurance
- overnight stay in a refuge with half board
The rate does not include
- research and rescue insurance with UVGAM coverage (recommended): €5 per person for 3 days
- transfers
- the hiring of any personal equipment (harness, ice axe, crampons and helmet): €60
- extra meals and beverages
- anything that is not mentioned under "The rate includes"
