PROGRAM
The Dent du Geant stands out against the sky on the ridge line above Courmayeur: its disarming verticality thrills all mountain lovers. From its summit you can enjoy the best view of Mont Blanc, Cresta di Rochefort and Grandes Jorasses. It is the ideal climb for those who want to start making mountaineering experiences of sustained commitment. Excellent experience as a “test trip” before tackling climbs of a good technical level, such as the Matterhorn.
GROUP DEPARTURES
Meeting point: 3:00PM, parking of the Skyway cable car in Courmayeur (fraz. Entrèves)
Check of the technical equipement and short briefing with the Guide.
Transfer to the Skyway cable car, ascent with the lifts and arrival at the Torino refuge (3,375 m).
Dinner and overnight at the refuge.
Meeting point: 3:00PM, parking of the Skyway cable car in Courmayeur (fraz. Entrèves)
Check of the technical equipement and short briefing with the Guide.
Transfer to the Skyway cable car, ascent with the lifts and arrival at the Torino refuge (3,375 m).
Dinner and overnight at the refuge.
Ascent height difference: 650 m
Ascent / descent time: 6-8 h
Wake up in the refuge and start early to head towards the Giant’s Tooth. You walk on an easy track until you reach the steep gully that leads to the start of the wall towards the famous Dent du Géant “gum”. The terrain is mixed, with stretches of snow and easy rock passages. Once at the base of the Gengiva, you begin to climb the actual climbing section. Sustained passages are faced (IV-V degree), often quite exposed.
The fixed ropes (ropes) facilitate some more physical passages and facilitate the ascent in the most demanding passages.
The climb is divided into a sequence of 6 rope pitches.
From the end of the gum, with an IV shot, you go up to reach the west wall; the second pitch is simpler (III) and leads to a solid bolt stop, where the fixed ropes begin. The shot that follows (even if given only by IV) has an impressive exposure and a non-trivial difficulty. The fourth pitch (V +) is athletic and tiring: it starts on the ridge, to finish, after an ascending blade-crack to the right, in the famous completely vertical wall-dihedral. The fifth pitch (IV +) continues vertically, to end along the ridge area that leads close to Punta Sella (4,009 m). The sixth pitch (IV) climbs a short smooth slab and takes the south-west peak to the top of Punta Sella (4.009 m). Finally, you go along an aerial ridge slightly downhill; a vertical jump of about 4 m leads to a length of fixed rope, to reach the notch between the two peaks and, from here, Punta Graham (4,014 m).
The descent is carried out by rappelling up to the “Gum” and then following the normal way of ascent.
Return to the Torino Refuge for a well-deserved celebratory beer and take the cable car back to the starting parking lot.
Ascent height difference: 650 m
Ascent / descent time: 6-8 h
Wake up in the refuge and start early to head towards the Giant’s Tooth. You walk on an easy track until you reach the steep gully that leads to the start of the wall towards the famous Dent du Géant “gum”. The terrain is mixed, with stretches of snow and easy rock passages. Once at the base of the Gengiva, you begin to climb the actual climbing section. Sustained passages are faced (IV-V degree), often quite exposed.
The fixed ropes (ropes) facilitate some more physical passages and facilitate the ascent in the most demanding passages.
The climb is divided into a sequence of 6 rope pitches.
From the end of the gum, with an IV shot, you go up to reach the west wall; the second pitch is simpler (III) and leads to a solid bolt stop, where the fixed ropes begin. The shot that follows (even if given only by IV) has an impressive exposure and a non-trivial difficulty. The fourth pitch (V +) is athletic and tiring: it starts on the ridge, to finish, after an ascending blade-crack to the right, in the famous completely vertical wall-dihedral. The fifth pitch (IV +) continues vertically, to end along the ridge area that leads close to Punta Sella (4,009 m). The sixth pitch (IV) climbs a short smooth slab and takes the south-west peak to the top of Punta Sella (4.009 m). Finally, you go along an aerial ridge slightly downhill; a vertical jump of about 4 m leads to a length of fixed rope, to reach the notch between the two peaks and, from here, Punta Graham (4,014 m).
The descent is carried out by rappelling up to the “Gum” and then following the normal way of ascent.
Return to the Torino Refuge for a well-deserved celebratory beer and take the cable car back to the starting parking lot.
DETAILS
RATES
- the assistance of a UIAGM/IFMGA certified Mountain Guide
- the Mountain Guide’s expenses (lifts, transfers, meals and accommodation)
- liability insurance
- overnight stay in a refuge with half board
- tickets for lift facilities
- booking assistance service (including assistance for refuges and lifts reservation)
The rate does not include
- research and rescue insurance with UVGAM coverage (recommended): €5 per person for 3 days
- the hiring of any personal equipment (harness, ice axe, crampons and helmet): €30/day per person while supplies last
- transfers
- extra meals and beverages for client and Guide
- anything that is not mentioned under "The rate includes"
