Mont-Maudit – Kuffner Ridge
Mont Maudit (4,465 m) is one of the most classic climbs in the Mont Blanc Massif. An ascent that every mountaineer must try, at least once.
Mont Maudit (4,465 m) is one of the most classic climbs in the Mont Blanc Massif. An ascent that every mountaineer must try, at least once.
Ranked in the top 10 of the most beautiful mountain climbs of the Alps, this route will always have its place in the history of mountaineering. First climbed in 1887, the route appears as an elegant and highly exposed line. Never boring and at the same time never extreme, it is a dream for most mountaineers.
We believe that adventure is the soul of life. Our mission is to inspire people to be able to overcome their limits. Such as the spirit created between rope partners, we believe in the value of sharing experiences and emotions
We believe that adventure is the soul of life. Our mission is to inspire people to be able to overcome their limits.
Such as the spirit created between rope partners, we believe in the value of sharing experiences and emotions
Meeting point: Skyway cable car ticket office in Entrèves (Courmayeur) for equipment check and a short briefing with the Guide
With the cableway, we will reach Pointe Helbronner. From there we’ll head to the Torino Hut (3,375 m), where we’ll have dinner and stay for the night.
Difference in altitude: 1,300 m
Ascent/descent time: 10-12 hours
We’ll put on our headlamps and set our around 2 am, heading towards the Combe Maudit. From there, we’ll climb a steep couloir towards a snowy ridge, that will take us to the base of the Kuffner Arête itself.
On snow or rock (depending on conditions) we’ll reach a slope that leads to the famous Androsace traverse: a steep and exposed snow ridge, amazingly beautiful, to be travelled on the Brenva side. We’ll continue on mixed and rock and climb back up to the snow-covered shoulder, via an incline of snow and broken rocks. From here, we can continue to the summit of Mont Maudit or descend the shoulder to reach the Normal itinerary to Mont Blanc.
Once we reach the Col du Midi, we’ll cross the Glacier du Géant and head back to the Torino Hut.