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Lyskamm – North Face Lyskamm – North Face

Lyskamm - North Face


A wall of snow and ice that stretches nearly 1,000 metres upwards. The North Face of the Lyskamm is possibly the most famous north face climb in the Alps.
PHOTOS

PROGRAM

Lyskamm forms part of the Monte Rosa group in the Pennine Alps that runs along the Swiss-Italian border between the Canton of Valais and Aosta Valley. The Lyskamm actually has two distinct peaks, Western (4,481 m) and Eastern (4,527 m), joined by one of the most beautiful ridges in the entire Alpine region. The north face of the Eastern Lyskamm offers one of the most prestigious climbs in the Alps. It was first conquered by Ludwig Normann-Neruda in 1890. The route currently favoured, which is entirely over snow and ice, was first used in 1925 for the fourth north-face ascent.

DAY

Difference in altitude: 380 m
Ascent time: 2 hours
Meeting point: Staffal (Gressoney La Trinité, AO) at 2:00 pm for equipment check and a short briefing with the Guide

We take the cable car up to Punta Indren (3,270 m). From there, we proceed on foot either to the Mantova Hut (3,498 m), about an hour’s walk, or directly to the Gnifetti hut (3,647 m), a walk of about two hours. Dinner and overnight stay at the hut.

DAY

Difference in altitude: 380 m
Ascent time: 2 hours
Meeting point: Staffal (Gressoney La Trinité, AO) at 2:00 pm for equipment check and a short briefing with the Guide

We take the cable car up to Punta Indren (3,270 m). From there, we proceed on foot either to the Mantova Hut (3,498 m), about an hour’s walk, or directly to the Gnifetti hut (3,647 m), a walk of about two hours. Dinner and overnight stay at the hut.

DAY

Difference in altitude: 1,200 m
Ascent/descent time: 8-12 hours

We set off from the hut at around 3.00 am. A relatively easy glacier walk then takes us to the Lysjoch (4,151 m). From there, we make a sweeping descent of the Grenzgletscher, until we can pick out the correct climbing line. Having found the easiest point to cross the bergschrund, we go up the mountain face, climbing at a constant 50°-55° gradient until we are underneath the peak of the Eastern Lyskamm. This is a tough climb; the descent from the east ridge is technically demanding, with sheer drops, so a keen eye and a sure foot are vital.

DAY

Difference in altitude: 1,200 m
Ascent/descent time: 8-12 hours

We set off from the hut at around 3.00 am. A relatively easy glacier walk then takes us to the Lysjoch (4,151 m). From there, we make a sweeping descent of the Grenzgletscher, until we can pick out the correct climbing line. Having found the easiest point to cross the bergschrund, we go up the mountain face, climbing at a constant 50°-55° gradient until we are underneath the peak of the Eastern Lyskamm. This is a tough climb; the descent from the east ridge is technically demanding, with sheer drops, so a keen eye and a sure foot are vital.

DETAILS

DURATION
orologio
2 Days
orologio
TECHNICAL DIFFICULTY
stelle
high
stelle
FITNESS LEVEL
cuori
good
cuori
PERSONS
utente
Max 1 for each Mountain Guide
utente
PERIOD
calendario
from 01/06 to 30/09
DURATION
TECHNICAL DIFFICULTY
FITNESS LEVEL
PERSONS
PERIOD
2 Days
high
good
Max 1 for each Mountain Guide
from 01/06 to 30/09
orologio
stelle
cuori
utente
calendario

RATES

1200 € fee per person with 1 participant
The rate includes
  • the assistance of a UIAGM certified Mountain Guide
  • liability insurance
  • loan of shared safety material

The rate does not include
  • research and rescue insurance with UVGAM coverage (recommended): €5 per person for 3 days
  • the hiring of any personal equipment (harness, ice axe, crampons and helmet): €20/day per person while supplies last
  • the Mountain Guide’s expenses (lifts, transfers, meals and accommodation)
  • transfers, meals and accommodation
  • lift: Stafal-Gabiet gondola + Gabiet-Passo dei Salati gondola + Passo dei Salati-Indren Funifor, multi-day ticket €40 per person
  • half-board in mountain huts: €65 per person at the Mantova Hut; €70 per person at the Gnifetti hut
  • anything that is not mentioned under "The rate includes"
Notes
  • It is crucial that participants follow all instructions provided by the mountain guides before and during the activities, and that they accept any changes made to the programme in order to guarantee their safety.
  • Fees for lift facilities, transfers and mountain lodges are subject to changes established and applied by the respective owners without any liability attributable to PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides.
  • The rates listed in the “The rate does not include” section are to be considered merely indicative and are therefore subject to changes.
  • PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides reserves the right to change any route or activity programme based on conditions (weather, accessibility, refuge) and participants’ fitness level.
  • The dates indicated for the activities may change due to weather, snow, or soil conditions, etc. In addition, they depend on the date of opening/closing of the lift facilities, which are established seasonally/yearly by the managing entities of the same and, therefore, are not in any way attributable to PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides.
Notes
  • It is crucial that participants follow all instructions provided by the mountain guides before and during the activities, and that they accept any changes made to the programme in order to guarantee their safety.
  • Fees for lift facilities, transfers and mountain lodges are subject to changes established and applied by the respective owners without any liability attributable to PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides.
  • The rates listed in the “The rate does not include” section are to be considered merely indicative and are therefore subject to changes.
  • PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides reserves the right to change any route or activity programme based on conditions (weather, accessibility, refuge) and participants’ fitness level.
  • The dates indicated for the activities may change due to weather, snow, or soil conditions, etc. In addition, they depend on the date of opening/closing of the lift facilities, which are established seasonally/yearly by the managing entities of the same and, therefore, are not in any way attributable to PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides.
freccia
MORE INFORMATION Request info by filling in the form or call us at:
(+39) 333 7681414
(+39) 328 9720451

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