The Lyskamm Traverse is one of the most interesting climbing routes in the Monte Rosa massif: it requires good training and a good confidence on exposed ridges, but it offers a great experience. Depending on environmental (ice and verglas, exposed rock) and weather conditions, difficulties can vary significantly.
We believe that adventure is the soul of life. Our mission is to inspire people to be able to overcome their limits. Such as the spirit created between rope partners, we believe in the value of sharing experiences and emotions
We believe that adventure is the soul of life. Our mission is to inspire people to be able to overcome their limits.
Such as the spirit created between rope partners, we believe in the value of sharing experiences and emotions
Difference in altitude: 220-350 m
Ascent time: 1 hour
Ascent/descent time: 1-2 hours
Meeting point: Staffal cable car ticket office in Gressoney-Staffal for an equipment check and a short briefing with the Guide
We take the cable car to Punta Indren (3,270 m), then we will head to either the Mantova Hut or the Gnifetti hut for dinner and overnight stay.
Difference in altitude: 900 m
Ascent/descent time: 8-10 hours
In the morning, we will make our way up the Lys Glacier, heading for the Lysjoch and the base of the snowy ridge that leads, via stretches of varying steepness, to the summit of the Eastern Lyskamm, where the traverse begins.
The trail, very noticeable, follows the edge of the ridge, even going over a small rocky prominence just before the summit of the Western Lyskamm. From the western peak, we will head down to the Felik Pass, join the trail that descends from Castor and continue to the Quintino Sella Hut. Next, a trail equipped with climbing aids will lead us to the Colle della Bettolina, from where we can take the cable car back to the parking lot.
The route can also be done in the opposite direction, or it could be the main leg of a tour of the Monte Rosa massif.