Piz Bernina – Biancograt

The Biancograt route to the summit of Piz Bernina needs no introduction. It is probably the most beautiful and elegant snow ridge in the Alps.

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Duration
3 Days
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Period
Jun - Sep
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Guide ratio
Max 1 for each Mountain Guide
price
From
1700€
Level
Level
high
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good
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THE PROGRAM:

The Biancograt route to the summit of Piz Bernina needs no introduction. It is probably the most beautiful and elegant snow ridge of the Alps. This classic climb demands a great shape, excellent technical skills, and should only be attempted with optimal soil and weather conditions, especially for crossing from the Swiss peak to the Italian one.

How to approach the Piz Bernina – Biancograt


Previous experiences recommended:

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Piz Bernina – Biancograt GROUP DEPARTURES

RATES

PRIVATE TOUR
  • 1700€ per person with 1 participant

THE RATE INCLUDES

  • the assistance of a UIAGM/IFMGA certified Mountain Guide
  • liability insurance
  • safety gear used by the Guide (eg rope)
  • booking assistance service (including assistance for refuges and lifts reservation)

THE RATE DOES NOT INCLUDE

  • research and rescue insurance with UVGAM coverage (recommended): €5 per person for 3 days
  • the hiring of any personal equipment (harness, ice axe, crampons and helmet): €30/day per person while supplies last
  • tickets for lift facilities
  • the Mountain Guide’s expenses (lifts, transfers, meals and accommodation)
  • transfers, meals and accommodation

LIVE THE ADVENTURE, SHARE THE EXPERIENCE

We believe that adventure is the soul of life. Our mission is to inspire people to be able to overcome their limits. Such as the spirit created between rope partners, we believe in the value of sharing experiences and emotions

LIVE THE ADVENTURE

We believe that adventure is the soul of life. Our mission is to inspire people to be able to overcome their limits.

SHARE THE EXPERIENCE

Such as the spirit created between rope partners, we believe in the value of sharing experiences and emotions

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Piz Bernina – Biancograt ASCENT DAY BY DAY

Difference in altitude: 800 m
Ascent time: 3-4 hours
Meeting point: Pontresina (Switzerland), for equipment check and a short briefing with the Guide

From Pontresina, the best option for reaching the Tschierva Hut (2,583 m) is to take the horse-drawn coach, which takes us as far as the Roseg Hotel (1,999 m) and saves us about 2 hours’ walk. Beyond the hotel, we take a trail that follows the left side of the Roseg Valley, offering a spectacular view that sweeps from Piz Roseg to Piz Bernina and the entire Biancograt.
The path becomes stony as it climbs to the Tschierva Hut, where we can enjoy a meal and stay overnight.

Difference in altitude: 1,500 m
Ascent/descent time: 7-9 hours

After breakfast we set off into the rubble field above the hut, guided by the light of our headlamps and the reflectors strategically placed on the rocks. We cross a short stretch of the glacier, then we climb up to the Fuorcla Prievlusa (3,445 m) before a stretch of roughly grade-III rock climbing takes us up to a plateau. Here we can enjoy a view of the legendary Biancograt in all its majesty. For the most part, we go along the ridge’s edge. The first peak we reach is the Piz Bianco (3,995 m), which marks the start of the most technically demanding section.
The route climbs and falls over stretches of rock and snow (grades I and II), then we pass a series of gendarmes, with some pretty exposed climbing (III+), before a section of easy, short pitches gives access to the summit of Piz Bernina (4,048 m).
We go down on the Italian side along the airy ridge that leads to La Spedla (or Punta Perrucchetti, 4,026 m).
A final, steep ascent over rocks and a snowfield will bring us to the welcoming Marco e Rosa Hut (3,609 m) for dinner and overnight stay.

Difference in altitude: 800 m
Descent gain: 1,200 m
Ascent/descent time: 6-8 hours

From the hut, we cross the glacier heading east below the spurs of the slender pyramid of the Crest’Aguzza. We climb a gentle slope until we gain about 100 m, and reach a point below the Bellavista Peaks. Here, we have two options: either we follow the ridge linking the three peaks of Piz Palü, then make our way in a wide arc down to the Diavolezza cable car, or we head north, climbing straight down in the direction of a rocky spur known as the Fortezza, and make our way to the glacier two-hundred metres below via a fun, if exposed, stretch of down climbing. From the glacier we need to climb back up a rocky col and cross another snowfield, then we make our way through a rubble field to the final section of the Morteratsch Glacier. Then, we follow the road to Morteratsch station, where we can catch the train back to Pontresina.

EQUIPMENT REQUIRED

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mountaineering boots
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backpack 30 l
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climbing helmet
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harness
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(+39) 3337681414 / (+39) 3289720451
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NOTES

  • It is crucial that participants follow all instructions provided by the mountain guides before and during the activities, and that they accept any changes made to the programme in order to guarantee their safety.
  • Fees for lift facilities, transfers and mountain lodges are subject to changes established and applied by the respective owners without any liability attributable to PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides.
  • The rates listed in the “The rate does not include” section are to be considered merely indicative and are therefore subject to changes.
  • PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides reserves the right to change any route or activity programme based on conditions (weather, accessibility, refuge) and participants’ fitness level.
  • The dates indicated for the activities may change due to weather, snow, or soil conditions, etc. In addition, they depend on the date of opening/closing of the lift facilities, which are established seasonally/yearly by the managing entities of the same and, therefore, are not in any way attributable to PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides.