Dent Blanche is a magnificent mountain, even if not as famous and much less crowded than the Matterhorn. It is also more difficult (there are no fixed ropes!) albeit considerably shorter. With no cable cars that approach it and no great touristy buzz about it, it preserves that ideal of purity that so much of the Alpine region seems to slowly be losing. The normal route along the south ridge is a splendid ascent on mixed terrain, fairly challenging, requiring great concentration when climbing (especially in case of verglas) and an excellent physical condition. Some stretches can be intimidating, and the total rise exceeds 2,500 metres in just two days. The ascent along the ridge can be divides in two parts: rather easy up to the Grand Gendarme, far more demanding in the second half. As you’d expect from such an isolated peak, the panorama from the summit is exceptionally broad, with imposing views of Matterhorn and of the Dent d’Herens.
We believe that adventure is the soul of life. Our mission is to inspire people to be able to overcome their limits. Such as the spirit created between rope partners, we believe in the value of sharing experiences and emotions
We believe that adventure is the soul of life. Our mission is to inspire people to be able to overcome their limits.
Such as the spirit created between rope partners, we believe in the value of sharing experiences and emotions
Difference in altitude: 1,700 m
Ascent time: 5-6 hours
Meeting point: Ferpècle (Sion, Switzerland), for equipment check and a short briefing with the Guide
A comfortable trail takes us to the Cabane de la Dent Blanche (Rossier) (3,501 m). The hike, though quite long, is beautiful and varied, across the whole spectrum of Alpine landscapes, from pastures to scree and from moraines to majestic glaciers.
Difference in altitude: 850 m
Descent gain: 2,500 m
Ascent/descent time: 14-16 hours
We set out at 4:30. The route is taxing from the start, with a steep rocky rib that begins behind the hut. We continue on snow and easy rock sections until we reach the imposing Grand Gendarme. Here begin the challenges, but also the most fascinating parts of the route. A number of grade III and IV sections on excellent rock, often airy, lead us to the final mixed stretch. At last, with immense satisfaction, we reach the summit! The descent is by the same route.
After such a tough day, it is usually recommended to spend one more night at the Dent Blanche Hut, and then tackle the long descent well rested the next day.