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Normal Italian way Normal Italian way

Normal Italian way


Mont Blanc tackled by the Italian side, with a challenging itinerary that traces the footsteps of the first ascents.
PHOTOS

PROGRAM

Only for experienced mountaineers, this is the most scenic and also the most difficult route. Witha drop of 1,800 m among breathtaking glaciers and sharp ridges, the route wind through the most untouched corners of Mont Blanc’s south face. Opened downhill by Achille Ratti in 1890, it subsequently became the Normal Italian Route. Nowadays it is a demanding and seldom-attempted itinerary, in a high mountain environment of unmatched beauty.

Note: due to weather conditions, in recent years it has usually been accessible only in the first part of the season, when there is still enough snow coverage in the lower sections.

DAY

Difference in altitude: 1,400 m
Ascent time: 4-5 hours
Meeting point: meeting in Courmayeur for equipment checking and shortbriefing.

We’ll start at the bottom of Veny Valley, we will walk on a paved road until Combal lake. From there we’ll climb the steep moraine up to the sharp rocky ridge, towards the Miage basin. We’ll walk for about 2 1/2 hours on the glacier’s moraine, on flat ground, in a truly spectacular setting. During the final stretch, detritus gives way to snow and ice. The last part of the ascent, on a steep but fully-equipped trail, will take us to the Gonella Hut (3,050 m).
Dinner and overnight stay in the hut.

DAY

Difference in altitude: 1,400 m
Ascent time: 4-5 hours
Meeting point: meeting in Courmayeur for equipment checking and shortbriefing.

We’ll start at the bottom of Veny Valley, we will walk on a paved road until Combal lake. From there we’ll climb the steep moraine up to the sharp rocky ridge, towards the Miage basin. We’ll walk for about 2 1/2 hours on the glacier’s moraine, on flat ground, in a truly spectacular setting. During the final stretch, detritus gives way to snow and ice. The last part of the ascent, on a steep but fully-equipped trail, will take us to the Gonella Hut (3,050 m).
Dinner and overnight stay in the hut.

DAY

Difference in altitude: 1,800 m
Ascent/descent time: 12-15 hours

We’ll leave the refuge around 1 am and tackle the glacier, alternating upright slopes, flat stretches and some steep pitches on seracs. The extremely wild landscape stretches until the plateau under the Col de Bionassay, which we’ll traverse towards the Col des Aiguille Grises (heavily crevassed and difficult). Before the climb, we’ll take a breather on the bare ice with some easy rock stretches (pitches up to grade II). From the Col des Aiguille Grises (3,900 m), we’ll ascend the sharp and spectacular ridge, with airy and narrow stretches giving way to the ample slopes leading to the summit of the Piton des Italiens. Without further difficulties we’ll reach the peak of the Dôme du Goûter, where our route joins the Goûter (French) route (4,200 m).
From here we’ll pass by the Vallot Hut (4,362 m) and finally, along the amazing Arête des Bosses, we’ll reach the summit.
We’ll go down along the same route; it is often convenient to head to Goûter Hut and then to Les Houches, where you can catch the shuttle back to Courmayeur (through the Mont Blanc Tunnel).

DAY

Difference in altitude: 1,800 m
Ascent/descent time: 12-15 hours

We’ll leave the refuge around 1 am and tackle the glacier, alternating upright slopes, flat stretches and some steep pitches on seracs. The extremely wild landscape stretches until the plateau under the Col de Bionassay, which we’ll traverse towards the Col des Aiguille Grises (heavily crevassed and difficult). Before the climb, we’ll take a breather on the bare ice with some easy rock stretches (pitches up to grade II). From the Col des Aiguille Grises (3,900 m), we’ll ascend the sharp and spectacular ridge, with airy and narrow stretches giving way to the ample slopes leading to the summit of the Piton des Italiens. Without further difficulties we’ll reach the peak of the Dôme du Goûter, where our route joins the Goûter (French) route (4,200 m).
From here we’ll pass by the Vallot Hut (4,362 m) and finally, along the amazing Arête des Bosses, we’ll reach the summit.
We’ll go down along the same route; it is often convenient to head to Goûter Hut and then to Les Houches, where you can catch the shuttle back to Courmayeur (through the Mont Blanc Tunnel).

DETAILS

DURATION
orologio
2 Days
orologio
TECHNICAL DIFFICULTY
stelle
low
stelle
FITNESS LEVEL
cuori
very good
cuori
PERSONS
utente
Max 1 for each Mountain Guide
utente
PERIOD
calendario
from 20/06 to 31/08
DURATION
TECHNICAL DIFFICULTY
FITNESS LEVEL
PERSONS
PERIOD
2 Days
low
very good
Max 1 for each Mountain Guide
from 20/06 to 31/08
orologio
stelle
cuori
utente
calendario

RATES

1350 € fee per person with 1 participant
The rate includes
  • the assistance of a UIAGM certified Mountain Guide
  • liability insurance
  • loan of shared safety material

The rate does not include
  • research and rescue insurance with UVGAM coverage (recommended): €5 per person for 3 days
  • the hiring of any personal equipment (harness, ice axe, crampons and helmet): €20/day per person while supplies last
  • tickets for lift facilities
  • the Mountain Guide’s expenses (lifts, transfers, meals and accommodation) to be covered by participants
  • transfers, meals and accommodation
  • lifts: Aiguille du Midi-Courmayeur cable car one way ticket: €58.50 per person
  • accommodation in mountain hut: half-board (dinner, overnight stay and breakfast) at Gonnella Hut: €50-63 per person, not including beverages
  • anything that is not mentioned under "The rate includes"
Notes
  • It is crucial that participants follow all instructions provided by the mountain guides before and during the activities, and that they accept any changes made to the programme in order to guarantee their safety.
  • Fees for lift facilities, transfers and mountain lodges are subject to changes established and applied by they respective owners. without any liability attributable to PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides.
  • The rates listed in the “The rate does not include” section are to be considered merely indicative and are therefore subject to changes.
  • PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides reserves the right to change any route or activity programme based on conditions (weather, accessibility, refuge) and participants’ fitness level.
  • The dates indicated for the activities may change due to weather, snow, or soil conditions, etc. In addition, they depend on the date of opening / closing of the lift facilities, which are established seasonally/yearly by the managing entities of the same and, therefore, are not in any way attributable to PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides.
Notes
  • It is crucial that participants follow all instructions provided by the mountain guides before and during the activities, and that they accept any changes made to the programme in order to guarantee their safety.
  • Fees for lift facilities, transfers and mountain lodges are subject to changes established and applied by they respective owners. without any liability attributable to PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides.
  • The rates listed in the “The rate does not include” section are to be considered merely indicative and are therefore subject to changes.
  • PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides reserves the right to change any route or activity programme based on conditions (weather, accessibility, refuge) and participants’ fitness level.
  • The dates indicated for the activities may change due to weather, snow, or soil conditions, etc. In addition, they depend on the date of opening / closing of the lift facilities, which are established seasonally/yearly by the managing entities of the same and, therefore, are not in any way attributable to PEAKSHUNTER Mountain Guides.
freccia

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