PROGRAM
If you want to reach the summit of Mont Blanc, this is the program for you. It will allow you to verify your training level, assess your technical skills, and improve your overall preparation. This program allows you to check your training level (physical and mountaineering), evaluating your technical skills before tackling the summit. It allows you to improve your preparation in the environment, to reach the highest peak in Europe with less effort and greater awareness. In this way, you could reach the “Top of Europe” with greater ease.
The program includes the ascent of two summits above 4.000 m in Monte Rosa area as a training before the ascent of Mont Blanc. This ascent will considerably increase the chances of success when tackling the final climb to the 4,810m summit.
The goal of this program is to provide adequate technical-physical preparation, in order to make the final ascent as pleasant and comfortable as possible. Throughout the training, you will be developing your mountaineering skills. The stage includes practices to learn techniques for proper crampons and ice axe use, as well as acclimatization at high altitudes, to avoid the risk of altitude sickness.
Note
It is necessary to book the refuge (Tête Rousse or Goûter) a few months in advance of the date scheduled for the summit ascent. From 2019, the ascent to the summit is conditional on the mountaineers having a reservation for the refuge. Free bivouac in private tents is no longer allowed. The booking receipt can be requested by the Gendarmerie at the check point before the Tête Rousse hut.
The Mont Blanc ascent requires a big physical effort so a very good fitness level is mandatory. Previous acclimatization is also very important, as well as having some previous mountaineering experiences, such as walking in crampons and using ropes and ice axes. It is therefore necessary to have an acceptable training in resistance to efforts, continued for several hours and at high altitude.
For all the reasons above, it is recommended to face the internship with at least one previous mountaineering experience or in any case well trained from a physical point of view.
The use of crampons on a glacier must be safe in all conditions and slopes. A very good confidence in the use of crampons on snow or ice is therefore a prerequisite for the climb. To this must be added the ability to walk on the glacier as a rope, using crampons and ice axes without hesitation even on very exposed and very steep slopes.
If you do not have previous experience in mountaineering, the days of preparation prior to the summit ascent will be dedicated to learning the basic techniques of glacier progression. During the preparatory excursions to the summit of Mont Blanc, the Guide will provide technical information and suggestions on the correct use of the equipment.
Difference in altitude: 915 m
Ascent time: 3-4 hours
Meeting point: meeting in Staffal (Gressoney, AO) at 11 am for equipment checking and a short briefing.
With the lifts, we’ll reach the Colle di Bettaforca (2,680 m). Then, we’ll follow the trail to the Colle della Bettolina (3,100 m). We’ll carry on until we reach the section equipped with fixed ropes, which winds its way up through exposed crests. One last slope, of remarkable steepness, will lead us to the Quintino Sella Hut (3,586 m).
Difference in altitude: 915 m
Ascent time: 3-4 hours
Meeting point: meeting in Staffal (Gressoney, AO) at 11 am for equipment checking and a short briefing.
With the lifts, we’ll reach the Colle di Bettaforca (2,680 m). Then, we’ll follow the trail to the Colle della Bettolina (3,100 m). We’ll carry on until we reach the section equipped with fixed ropes, which winds its way up through exposed crests. One last slope, of remarkable steepness, will lead us to the Quintino Sella Hut (3,586 m).
Difference in altitude: 780 m
Ascent/descent time: 4-5 hours
From the hut, we’ll ascend onto the Felik Glacier and head east. We will descend slightly at first, then move through the long glacial plateau by the south face of the Lyskamm. We’ll climb the steep slope of the “Nose” (Naso del Lyskamm – 40°) up to its summit (4,272 m), then a steep snowy decline will take us onto the easier Lys Glacier. Once we reach the track to Capanna Gnifetti, we’ll get to the hut without further challenges, enjoying the views of a truly imposing scenery.
Difference in altitude: 780 m
Ascent/descent time: 4-5 hours
From the hut, we’ll ascend onto the Felik Glacier and head east. We will descend slightly at first, then move through the long glacial plateau by the south face of the Lyskamm. We’ll climb the steep slope of the “Nose” (Naso del Lyskamm – 40°) up to its summit (4,272 m), then a steep snowy decline will take us onto the easier Lys Glacier. Once we reach the track to Capanna Gnifetti, we’ll get to the hut without further challenges, enjoying the views of a truly imposing scenery.
Difference in altitude: 900 m
Ascent/descent time: 7-9 hours
We’ll wake up at 4, have breakfast, and set out from Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m). Cramponing up the glacier we’ll come to the vicinities of the Vincent Pyramid and the Christ of the Summits (Balmenhorn). Then, via the base of the Schwarzhorn, the Ludwigshöhe and the Parrotspitze, we’ll reach the Lysjoch pass (4,250 m). A descending traverse under Parrotspitze will take us under Punta Gnifetti. An ascending traverse and a brief final stretch will lead us to the Margherita Hut, Europe’s highest building (4,554 m).
We’ll descend via the same route, then return to the parking lot with the lifts.
Difference in altitude: 900 m
Ascent/descent time: 7-9 hours
We’ll wake up at 4, have breakfast, and set out from Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m). Cramponing up the glacier we’ll come to the vicinities of the Vincent Pyramid and the Christ of the Summits (Balmenhorn). Then, via the base of the Schwarzhorn, the Ludwigshöhe and the Parrotspitze, we’ll reach the Lysjoch pass (4,250 m). A descending traverse under Parrotspitze will take us under Punta Gnifetti. An ascending traverse and a brief final stretch will lead us to the Margherita Hut, Europe’s highest building (4,554 m).
We’ll descend via the same route, then return to the parking lot with the lifts.
Difference in altitude: 1,450 m
Ascent time: 2-3 hours
Meeting point: meeting in Courmayeur for equipment checking and short briefing.
Transfer to Les Houches by car. Then, we’ll take the Bellevue cable car to the rail station and the train to Nid d’Aigle. Ascent to the Tête Rousse Hut (3,167 m) in approximately 2 hours. Dinner and overnight stay at the hut.
Difference in altitude: 1,450 m
Ascent time: 2-3 hours
Meeting point: meeting in Courmayeur for equipment checking and short briefing.
Transfer to Les Houches by car. Then, we’ll take the Bellevue cable car to the rail station and the train to Nid d’Aigle. Ascent to the Tête Rousse Hut (3,167 m) in approximately 2 hours. Dinner and overnight stay at the hut.
Difference in altitude: 600 m
Ascent time: 3-4 hours
Ascent to the Goûter Hut (3,814 m) in about 2 hours for dinner and overnight stay. Depending on weather and physical conditions, we could decide to continue to the summit.
Note: In the second case it is a long day with a considerable elevation gap. The final 800 m of ascent are demanding and at times dangerous. In a few sections, extreme care must be taken due to occasional rockfalls caused by melting snow (especially late in the season or in particularly warm weather conditions).
Difference in altitude: 600 m
Ascent time: 3-4 hours
Ascent to the Goûter Hut (3,814 m) in about 2 hours for dinner and overnight stay. Depending on weather and physical conditions, we could decide to continue to the summit.
Note: In the second case it is a long day with a considerable elevation gap. The final 800 m of ascent are demanding and at times dangerous. In a few sections, extreme care must be taken due to occasional rockfalls caused by melting snow (especially late in the season or in particularly warm weather conditions).
Difference in altitude: 600 m
Ascent/descent time: 12 -13 hours
We’ll leave from the Goûter Hut around 3 am and ascend to the Mont Blanc summit (4,810 m) along the Bosses Ridge.
Ascent and descent will take 12-13 hours total.
If we reached the summit on the 2nd day, the 3rd day will be dedicated to descending.
Note: Despite a smaller drop than the day before, this leg is equally strenuous since it is entirely on glacier. You can really feel the altitude, especially in the final 600 meters of ascent and you must be fit enough to walk on glacier and hike uphill for about 12 hours.
Difference in altitude: 600 m
Ascent/descent time: 12 -13 hours
We’ll leave from the Goûter Hut around 3 am and ascend to the Mont Blanc summit (4,810 m) along the Bosses Ridge.
Ascent and descent will take 12-13 hours total.
If we reached the summit on the 2nd day, the 3rd day will be dedicated to descending.
Note: Despite a smaller drop than the day before, this leg is equally strenuous since it is entirely on glacier. You can really feel the altitude, especially in the final 600 meters of ascent and you must be fit enough to walk on glacier and hike uphill for about 12 hours.
DETAILS
RATES
- the assistance of a UIAGM certified Mountain Guide
- the Mountain Guide’s expenses (lifts, transfers, meals and accommodation)
- liability insurance
- loan of shared safety material
- tickets for lift facilities
- 5 nights accommodation: four nights in refuge in half board and one night in B&B
- booking service for accommodations and refuges
The rate does not include
- research and rescue insurance with UVGAM coverage (recommended): €12 per person for 7 days
- the hiring of any personal equipment (harness, ice axe, crampons and helmet): €25/day per person while supplies last
- transfers
- extra meals and beverages (for the participants and for the Guide)
- anything that is not mentioned under "The rate includes"
